A few years ago, I hiked the West Coast trail in Pacific Rim National Park, British Columbia. This trail spans from Port Renfrew on the west coast of Vancouver Island, north to the town of Bamfield. We started our trek in a boat, on a very misty morning; crossed the Gordon River and as soon as we disembarked, the adventure began.
When getting my gear together I didn’t think about walking poles or something to help me scramble up steep inclines. Needless to say I didn’t have any and was using my hands to climb the first part of the trail. Upon reaching the top I found a stick, nicknamed it “Ethel”, and it was my constant companion throughout the hike.
My pack was heavy, 45 pounds, with all my gear and food. At one point I tipped over, ending up face down, wedged between a log and salal, a leathery-leafed, woody-shrub. Note, always hike with a buddy, you never know when you will be completely helpless on the trail. Luckily one of my hiking buddies got my pack off so that I could free my arms and get up.
As a runner, I considered myself fit for this journey, envisioning a groomed path. Who knows where I got that idea. I read the brochure. I just didn’t expect to scramble over roots and rocks, up steep trails and very tall ladders. I was surprised by the wildness of the trail. We saw many signs of bears as we hiked and one morning a bear walked into our campsite. By the end of the first day, and five kilometers, I was exhausted, but it was incredible, like walking into the pages of Gulliver’s travels and we were the Lilliputians.
We hiked on boardwalks, took little trams across gorges, climbed very high ladders and forded streams. This trip was the most challenging thing I have ever done. At one point I yearned to go home but I didn’t have the choice to go back or stop. The only thing I could do was dig deeper and find the will to keep putting one foot in front of the other. I’m glad I didn’t turn around. I found wonder awaiting me at every curve in the trail.
It rained a lot the first couple of days. I became used to the fact that nothing I wore would be completely dry. Finally, the sun burst through the clouds and we walked out onto a sunny beach. The remains of numerous shipwrecks lay like memories of what they once were. This trail, originally called the Dominion Lifesaving Trail, was built to save shipwrecked survivors.
Our journey took us along a long stretch of beach, towards Camanah Lighthouse, and a little slice of heaven, called Chez Monique’s. Monique Nytol and her husband started Chez Monique’s years ago, to serve hikers, starved for something more decadent than dehydrated carrots. A drink and a hamburger, to anyone who wants to pay the $25.00. I did, it was the most wonderful lunch I have ever had. I still think of that hamburger, it was huge, and worth every bite.
At Nitnat Narrows, a hiker can indulge in a huge salmon steak or fresh crab and a baked potato. The Crab Shack, operated by Carl Edgar Jr., is a perfect spot to rest before crossing the narrows. Who wouldn’t want to have a fresh salmon steak the size of a dinner plate or fresh caught crab?
When we finally reached the end of the trail I had mixed feelings. I didn’t want the adventure to end, even though I was very tired and had lost about 6 pounds. I did have to get back to my ordinary life. This was a life changing journey for me. I discovered I could overcome incredibly difficult challenges and look back to realize it wasn’t so hard after all.
